Hi Guys,

I have a K Reg Peugeot 306 1.6 XR, the same engine as the Saxo VTR. The other day it cut out from lack of power. I jump started it and it was misfiring. On closer inspection one of the spark plug cylinders was filled with oil which caused the ht lead to pop off, got that sorted but there is now no charge going to the battery. I checked a working battery but definatly no charge. I put a voltmeter to the power terminal of the Alternator but got a rating of 12 which was slowly decreasing. So I think that was just the reverse charge from the battery. Now I am wondering what is most likely, this is surely a packed up alternator?? The wiring seems all good as far as I can see. Also the battery warning light on the dash is not active at all anymore not even when you are at accessory stage of ignition. I remember some of the old Fords the circuit ran through that bulb and the alternator wouldnt function without it. One last thing the tank is now just about empty, would this of affected things at all if it was dangerously low before?

Any ideas or suggestions welcome, I am pretty skint so need to be most cost effective with this.

Chris

The easiest non proffesional way to test your alternator is to make sure your engine is at normal operatiing temperature, switch on your headlamps main beam, turn your heater fans to full speed and your headlamps should be slighty dim. If you then rev your engine to around 3000rpm the lights should brighten considerably.
A better way is to put a voltmeter across the terminals and record the voltage. It should be at least 12.5v at idle rising to at least 13.5v at 2000rpm. My Honda Civic shows between 13.8v and 14.4v during normal running.
Remember this could be something as simple as a poor earth. Check all the earths on your charging system as even the smallest amount of corrosion can cause a significant voltage drop.
I can sympathise with you on the being skint front.
I hope this info helps.
All the best Tom

Nice info mate. It helps me on some ways.

__________________
cars | vans | suv | bmw

Thought I'd post here rather than start a new thread.


My friend has been having trouble starting her 306, N reg.
It can be jump started but will not seem to start on it's own. With my total lack of knowledge I've put it down to one of two things.

1 The battery is not holding a charge.
2 The alternator is not charging the battery.

I will be adding some photos later but, bearing in mind my lack of knowledge, can somebody please give me some pointers as to how to check these things, I wouldn't even know what the alternator looks like.
tomly007's answer seems very helpful but do you put the voltmeter across the battery terminals or the alternator's. Also where are the earths on the charging system?

EDIT. I now know what the alternator looks like (google is your friend) but the other basic questions still remain.

Hello Chris
First of all don't spend any money until you have checked all of the following.
1: Alternator, with a multimeter set to the appropriate voltage scale with the engine running at tickover you should be seeing at least 13.5v with this showing 14.5 to 15v at around 2-2500 rpm.
If this isn't the case then check all the connections for dirt or corrosion. I once had a Jawa motorcycle which was charging poorly and I cured it with some wet and dry paper and some vaseline.
An alternator has to put out around 70amps and if your battery or earth connections aren't clean and secure then little of this will make it's way to the battery.
Take all the connections off and give them a good rub with emery paper till they shine, the smear either vaseline or copperslip on them and tighten them up securely.
Unless the alternator is goosed then this will cure the problem.
Also remember that modern cars with electronic ignition need a good battery voltage to run properly. A lot of problems with modern cars can be traced back to a low battery voltage.
To finally confirm the alternator is up sh*t creek charge the battery overnight and monitor how quickly it loses it's charge.
This isn't as crazy as it sounds because in winter a car battery has a very hard life. One single cold start requires a run of 15-20 minutes to put the charge back into the battery. That doesn't even begin to include using your heated rear window, heater motor, windscreen wipers or lights.
As you can see if you are using these every day on frequent short runs then although your alternator may be fine, an ailing battery will make it look as though it isn't.
Not many batteries die in summer do they?
If you check your alternator and battery as described and one or the other is knackered don't despair too much.
Money is tight for everyone, so if you need to replace your battery ignore the likes of Halfords and try a local motor factors who should do you a battery for around £35 to £40 (with at least a 2 year warranty) and an alternator for around £70.
If you have one locally you could source a second-hand alternator from a scrapyard or breakers for around £30. Fitting usually only involves two or three bolts and a multiplug.
If you need any more help just holler.
All the best and good luck
Tom

Sorry Chris I forgot to mention the following in my post.
To measure the battery you measure the voltage across the battery terminals at all times, the alternator might wreck your multimeter if you connect it to the alternator.
To test the aternator you can do the same or alternatively you can put the positive test lead to the positive battery terminal and the negative test lead to a good earth point on the car.
All the best and good luck
Tom

Thanks, will have a good look at it this weekend and let you know how I get on.